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發表於 2012-8-31 16:56:48
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本帖最後由 fokker 於 2012-8-31 18:14 編輯
回復 chhoalex #46 的帖子
I am actually a fan of many types of wines: Burgundy, Rhone (Northern & Southern), Champagne, Alsace, Beaujolais, Loire, Piedmonte, Tuscany, Veneto, Umbria, Compania, Australian,Shiraz, New Zealand etc. Note that I omitted out Bordeaux Rouge because they can be boring, unless of course it is a 89, 90 La Conseillante, 70 Petrus or any good vintages of Haut Brion or Lafleur. There was only 1 bottle of 82 Lafite I liked- other bottles of 82 Laifte did not excite me. Oh and 64 and 67 Latour as these are special years for me. Bordeaux Blanc is another matter: I probably have more Bordeaux Blanc at home and in store in the UK than ANY other types of white wine
Anyway, turning back to burgundy, I found it interesting for the 2004 La Tache to take 2 hours to blossom. My experience with the 70, 71, 76, 83, 88, 91, 92, 95, 97 was quite different from yours; sure, they had some bottle ages when I drank them, but I started drinking the 91 from 97 and on average I drink a bottle of 91 every 1-2 years. Even in 97, I found the 91 was superb straight from bottle and it evolved for about an hour n glass. And for the weaker vintages like 92 I had last year, you need to drink it pretty soon once poured; it drops dead after about 10-20 minutes. For your info, I bought 18 bottles of the 91 at HK$2500 each and got 10% case discount. Those were the days with 90% tax on wines. I still remember buying the DRC Grands Echezeaux for less than 1000 a bottle.
Remember one thing, Burgundies are meant to be served at room temperature, after you pulled it off the cellar (12 degree C). In Burgundy room temperature means a range of 5-18 degree Celcius. I remember drinking a Volnay Taillepieds in a good Beaune restaurant in deep winter and the wine was actually quite cold (did not know the temp, but cold enough to form a layer of condensation on the bottle),when served by the sommelier; it was delicious all the same. Anyways, if you leave the wine uncorked standing in room temperature in HONG KONG for 3-4 hours, you are talking about a warmed-up wine at > 21C. And if you further decant the wine, and if the decanter is not chilled up, the wine is drunk at 23-24 degree C. A higher temperature would bring out more flavours from lower quality wines (just like you drink lower qaulity Sake and Xiao Xing rice wine warmed up), but for good quality stuff this is excessive and destroys the texture and mouthfill. Yes, good wines are not just about flavours, the mouthfill and texture ie. silkiness and chewiness are not any less important. I find drinking a La Tache at 22 degree celcius (esp when poured and left in the glass for 2 hours) quite disconcerting. My impression woould be, as the 2004 is from a relatively weak vintage, the wine benefited from the higher temperature as a result. But the mouthfill?
At Dujac, they do recommend decanting the wine as they are bottled unfiltered. It even says so on the bottle. I do not find that necessary and the only Burgundies I decant are the WHITE ones. The Baccarat people make this lovely fluke shaped (Champagne)decanter so you could place it in an ice bucket. And aged white Burgundies do benefit from a bit of airing and it is very pretty to look at the golden yellow colour through the crystal.
Again just my 2 cent worth of opinion. |
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